This week I organized a hiking trip with some of my colleagues at work to Gunung Panti - the nearest mountain in the neighboring state of Johor, Malaysia. There was very limited information about trails in this area, but we found an enthusiast's guide with GPS waypoints so we thought it was something we could do. With GPS and compass in hand (and passports, visas and employee passes) we travelled by car from Singapore to the nearby town of Kota Tinggi. There were only four of us - a colleague and his wife, and a junior member of the team who I am mentoring. Connie and Lizzy had tickets to Ugly Duckling.
Besides hike organizer, I was also the driver for this trip, so I woke up at ~5am in order to get to the first pickup point at 5:40am, and to the second one by 5:55am. We were across to Malaysia by 6:15am. This was the first time I drove through the Woodlands link - there are only 2 bridges from Singapore to Malaysia and I've taken the other one twice. They are really similar and I am not sure why the so-called Second Link is favored (Google maps refuses to give directions via Woodlands). I can understand taking the out-of-the-way Second Link to Kuala Lumpur or Penang, but not to central or Eastern Johor. The main thing is to get to these border crossings before 6:30am and avoid them altogether during public holidays...
We were at the outskirts of the Gunung Panti Forest Reserve around 8am. The dirt road that led to the trailhead had some very big weak spots, so we ended up parking next to the guardhouse just outside a nearby hotel - I tipped the guard to watch the car, mostly to make sure no monkeys attack it, like they did in Thailand. The trail we followed leading from a makeshift camp opened out to a nearby farm or kampong. It then picked up again wherever we chose to climb over the farm's fence... A simple study of the terrain ahead of time, and a closer look at a compass would have saved us an hour and a lot of stress. As organizer I take full responsibility for not being better prepared. Trying to find the main trail, we fought the thick rainforest full with leeches, mosquitoes, and very sharp brambles only to get ~100m or so, elevation-wise, short of the peak when I decided to give up and start heading back - I was not very confident of my trekking skill by this point, and it was getting close to noon. I wanted to play it safe given that I was leading the way and there was a lady present.
View Gunung Panti - April 2, 2011 in a larger map
On the way down, we lost the trail again. And again. We somehow got to the damned farm again... and again - the third time was not my fault, except maybe that I did not sufficiently fight the rest of the group about which way to go. We made it back down by ~2pm. We were all bleeding from leech bites along our sock lines. Some of us ran out of water. I had a crazy cramp in my left calf. As soon as we made it down I vowed to return within two month's time for a do-over. The GPS died near the peak, not that the piece of shit really helped. Switching to a mechanical compass (don't trust your iPhones!) was the way to go. It made me fairly sure of my bearings and direction of travel (other than down). It was the first time I trekked without following a well-marked trail and a hiking map. We were also the ONLY people on the mountain - that was a new experience for me, and I came out a better trekker and more sure of my general survival skills.
Leeches
Cold Bath
After the stressful hike, we drove 5 minutes north to the Kota Tinggi Waterfalls Resort. I really didn't know what to expect, but we were already there, so we paid the 10RM fee per person and parked the car. The resort is quite dinky, no doubt. We washed our hike off in a small pool by the hotel reception. Then we walked to the waterfalls (despite aching limbs). In short, the waterfalls are awesome. The water is cold and refreshing, and the cascading terrain has created small pools for those brave enough to climb the slippery rocks to get a nice perch and a "massage." We spent an hour enjoying ourselves and taking pictures. We even got to see a snake swallowing another snake whole.
This was my third and best trip to Malaysia to this point. I suspect I will be back in Kota Tinggi very soon!
View Gunung Panti - April 2, 2011 in a larger map
On the way down, we lost the trail again. And again. We somehow got to the damned farm again... and again - the third time was not my fault, except maybe that I did not sufficiently fight the rest of the group about which way to go. We made it back down by ~2pm. We were all bleeding from leech bites along our sock lines. Some of us ran out of water. I had a crazy cramp in my left calf. As soon as we made it down I vowed to return within two month's time for a do-over. The GPS died near the peak, not that the piece of shit really helped. Switching to a mechanical compass (don't trust your iPhones!) was the way to go. It made me fairly sure of my bearings and direction of travel (other than down). It was the first time I trekked without following a well-marked trail and a hiking map. We were also the ONLY people on the mountain - that was a new experience for me, and I came out a better trekker and more sure of my general survival skills.
Leeches
As I noted above, we were all attacked by leeches on this trek. This was my first experience with the suckers (pun intended). They look like worms, and once attached to your skin they swell up in size from the blood intake. If you try to rip them off your skin, it will cause minor injury. The approved way to get rid of the leech is to sprinkle salt on it - we came prepared. It will then contract and lose contact at which point you can flick it off. It will also eventually get off of you once it had its fill. After my first leech attack, I raised my socks as far as they could go. I was wearing really thick wool socks and this kept the leeches from getting to my skin through the sock - something that happened to others in my party. Every 15 minutes or so I would check my boots and flick off any leeches climbing toward the sock line. This seemed to work. When we got back t the car there were some on my socks inside the boots, but they never made contact after the first one.
Cold Bath
After the stressful hike, we drove 5 minutes north to the Kota Tinggi Waterfalls Resort. I really didn't know what to expect, but we were already there, so we paid the 10RM fee per person and parked the car. The resort is quite dinky, no doubt. We washed our hike off in a small pool by the hotel reception. Then we walked to the waterfalls (despite aching limbs). In short, the waterfalls are awesome. The water is cold and refreshing, and the cascading terrain has created small pools for those brave enough to climb the slippery rocks to get a nice perch and a "massage." We spent an hour enjoying ourselves and taking pictures. We even got to see a snake swallowing another snake whole.
This was my third and best trip to Malaysia to this point. I suspect I will be back in Kota Tinggi very soon!
hi when do you intend to come again to Panti?
ReplyDeleteNot sure I ever will... It's convenient, but the trail is quite filthy with human debris. I'd rather try further afield, like Gunung Belumut, Ledang, etc.
ReplyDeleteAlthough, from the little I have seen of Ledang/Ophir, it is not much better, trash-wise. Pity.
Hiv there,
ReplyDeletemy mates and I are attempting this in 2 weeks. Was just wondering if the actual summit was northwest of your starting point instead of northeast as your tracking log shows?
According to google maps you were apparently heading towards a 400m+ peak but there appears to be a higher 500m summit northwest of Jln Lombong: http://wikimapia.org/#lat=1.8198195&lon=103.8522148&z=13&l=0&m=t
Just wanted to be sure before gunning for the wrong summit. Thanks!
YZ
We climbed the NorthEast of J171 (Jalan Lombong) peak as described in waypoints here (link available in post above as well):
ReplyDeletehttp://michal.szymanski.free.fr/HikingInMalaysia/MalaysiaHikeE.htm
I am not sure how to get to a peak NorthWest of Jln Lombong. There are no obvious roads off that main one going there, but there may be some way through a plantation to get to a comfortable starting place. The peak with the cliff and ropes tied for convenient rock climbing is as I've described in my map. If you're arriving by car and don't know the area, I recommend going up that one first, or at least save it as a plan B.